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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and sandy bays comprise the stunning blend that is the Athens Riviera. Thus at the end of an autumn day, I found myself with a rather agreeable question: where to head to soothe bones still longing for a last splash of warm weather. For Athens offers something that other European cities cannot: a coastline of more than 40 miles featuring beaches many a Greek island would covet.

Out of season, the coasts of Attica still have a strong appeal, as I found when swimming into a setting sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for revitalization in azure seas ready to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's public or private beaches does not let you down.

With sea salt still clinging to my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as good as the breathtaking panorama of the bay it overlooks. In a tribute to times past, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as celebrated for its elevations as its coastline: rising terrain within view of the ancient citadel that make it a rich resource for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to get away from a city that extends across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – bearers of wonderful titles such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Hill of the Muses – are a must.

In my view, this ancient capital is Europe’s most spiritual and magnificent.

If you climb the summit of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s tallest peak, either by foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the whole Argo-Saronic Gulf and the offshore isles.

If you want to be in the center, the historic Plaka neighborhood remains the ideal location. The old-school Adrian hotel has rooms looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the vicinity, Zorbas is a preferred eatery with locals and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With vistas of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are highly evocative and perfect for warm autumn evenings – for a special experience visit a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred fine dining establishment.

Palermo

Think Neapolitan margherita is the ultimate in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, well-risen rectangle of dough topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and topped with local cheese and herbs. Hearty, satisfying and comforting, it’s sold in shops, kiosks and carts all over the city (Via Maqueda in the old town usually has several vendors).

We try it at a kiosk on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. A local spot often has long queues, but they progress fast as employees dish out slices of sfincione, as well as arancini and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we dine as we stroll into town along narrow Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t always be in the heat. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, the mercury in Palermo reached 104F in the shade. At the end of July one hot spot reached an unprecedented 158F at ground level.

We stroll the streets and enjoy how its rich past is etched in its streets.

Now, as temperatures rise to 75F by the afternoon, we can explore the metropolis and appreciate how its long history is visible in its roads. Walking by baroque and art nouveau palaces, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the unique architecture of the 12th-century San Cataldo Church; a main square, with its 16th-century fountain, installed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, constructed on the site of a ancient mosque.

On the way back we detour to the local market, the roots of which also date back over a millennium. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still lively and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we stop for a classic spleen sandwich, which is better than expected, with its mildly sugary “meat” set off by grated cheese. The vendor is especially pleased of his grilled goat’s intestines but, unfortunately, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to head back to quieter La Kalsa, the former Arab quarter to the east, which was bombed in the World War II and languished for decades before being revitalized this era. Maison Butera (sea-view rooms from €161 B&B) is a small B&B with many attractions nearby. Up the street is a historic palace, a 17th-century baroque pile restored and reopened in recently to house the an art collection, which includes works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll a short distance to the city's gardens, with its notable ancient tree. Songbirds are chirping loudly as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the clocks will go back and winter will start. We relish a final days in the light.

Vienna

While lamenting the end of summer and hanging out at seaside spots and bathing spots on the tributaries of the river, I’m now chasing a different color. This city is a city of parks and well-kept lawns, grassy areas and woodland belts, which exchange their green canopy for a golden and ochre glow the locals call Goldener Herbst.

I leave behind the impressive buildings and old streets of the downtown. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the grand royal palace, where the gilt isn’t reserved for the inside, and makes its way into pathways of towering copper bushes and arched tree terraces that go to the bright building.

To the eastern part, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the Hauptallee, an avenue that’s almost five kilometers long and ancient. On the border of the park, the retro-styled a trendy hotel (doubles from $85 B&B) is a perfectly placed getaway.

In a city with hundreds of urban farms (thanks to a dedicated effort to promoting green spaces and building local culture), autumn brings a feast of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Pumpkin cream soup is the classic dish – best devoured in a wood-panelled Beisl such as the art-splashed a popular spot – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

Vienna is a city of green areas and gardens that change their green cover for a rusty amber and warm hue.

Little known, Vienna is the only European capital to grow wine within its urban area, with 700 hectares of vineyards. There are 14 designated urban paths, known as walking routes. Route one takes you through the vintner lands of Nussdorf. Settle in a slope wine tavern such as Wieninger am Nussberg, sipping a zesty white wine with a Brettljause (a platter of cold cuts and dairy), while enjoying the sublime city vista.

The hours are getting briefer, but now is the perfect time to wander among Vienna’s stately palaces, galleries and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|